• Stories from Fiji: Part V

    Fiji was turning out to be quite the tropical Wonderland. Flora resembled swirly, old fashioned candy sticks and ribbon candy. The lollipop plant and frangipani flowers might as well have started talking.
    Never in my life have I seen so many hermit crabs. Or, more gigantic geckos. On my first sighting, I actually thought the gecko in question was an oversized figurine mounted on the wall. Then, it turned its head. And, looked straight into my eyeballs. Eels were another creature that we saw plenty of, and dually gave me the heebie-jeebies. Among the more charming animals were the colorful crabs, the brilliantly blue Kingfisher, and the butterflies which climbed on our fingers. 

    It is true that “I see what I eat” is not the same as “I eat what I see.” Nevertheless, we nibbled nearly every tasty thing we saw.  

    In Savusavu town, we found homemade ice cream in flavors like honey ginger chai, cashew praline, and cinnamon. We even tempted ourselves with the dessert special, the cleverly-named Banana Kayak. It was absolutely delicious, and we found ourselves teetering on the edge of an ice cream binge.
    However, we used some restraint. Inside the supermarkets, curiosities were on every aisle. One salty snack caught my attention: UFO's. Unusually Flavored Objects. In this case, burger flavored. We found them betwixt chicken and cheese flavored Twisties, and Yumo's- “The Big Snack!”. For a while, I stood and stared at this spectacle. We were also not so accustomed to seeing so much corned mutton.

    Indulgence is an expected characteristic of Travel, however we have learned one thing- you should not ingest everything that seems to say, “Eat me.”

  • Stories from Fiji: Part IV

    Fiji supplied many opportunities to be active, or quite leisurely. As in most aspects of life, we decided it was best to find the medium.

    Since I was on my way to becoming a professional piddler, we signed up for something called a “Salt River Drift.” David made a number of considerations, and told me he thought we should do it. I assumed it meant tubing. But, when we were given life jackets, I looked at David with a very quizzical brow.

    We were driven to the river, told to simply climb on in, and then given a beer. Because of the salt water, we were notably buoyant. 
    Our party was comprised of our guides (toting behind us in a small boat- with the beer), the two of us, and two other international couples. The Japanese couple pounded their beers, while the Canadian couple told us of their recent hunting trip in New Zealand. The wife described the delights of their hunt, “If you see anything you like, you shoot it.”  She was a butcher.

    Outside of our own chatter, it was nearly silent. Flanked by thick jungle and deep shadows, our surroundings were wild in every sense. The scenery would have been easier to comprehend if you told me we were on a ride at Disney World. 

    During our drift, I spied some absolutely enormous seed pods hanging from a tree. One of our guides, who swam unassisted the entire time for exercise, told us it was a mangrove! Just saying the name aloud felt a little magical.

    The river connected to the ocean and ended in a sizeable lake. We climbed onto a floating platform near the lake's center, where we found a 360º view of untouched land. Jungle, mountains, clouds, and streams of late-day sunshine. It was incredible.

    Balance is not always easily found. For this reason, I was grateful it came to us so effortlessly and with such enjoyment. On that day, we had plenty to be thankful for. We were told that barracudas and sharks often swim in the river- a fact I certainly appreciated to learn afterward.

  • Stories from Fiji: Part III

    For David and myself, food is one of the most interesting parts of travel (and life, in general). Eating, talking about eating, thinking about food. It's all great fun. And, it can be so tasty!

    Toasted nuts and fresh fruit arrived on our plates every morning. Including, the best papaya I have ever put in my mouth- an event which changed my opinion on the fruit entirely. We also had the opportunity to enjoy (lots of) particularly yummy banana pancakes.

    But, Fijian cuisine is not well known. You have to ask around to discover what's most traditional or what Fijians eat at home. We encountered typical ingredients like taro root (dalo) and leaf (rourou), white sweet potatoes (kumala), and Walu fish. Tubers, seafood, fruit, and Indian cuisine dominate the menus. There didn't seem to be a great amount of typical Fijian dishes, but we did get to try Kokoda, Fiji’s version of ceviche made with lime juice and coconut cream.

    Concerning beverages, Fiji does have one that is extremely commonplace. It's known throughout the South Pacific, and its name is Kava. It's basically an herbal version of Xanax in beverage form and tastes like pond water. (The murkiness did not help distance itself from this comparison, either.) The drink is made from the kava plant's root which has anesthetic and sedative properties. When asked how kava tasted to us, we just replied, "It's very earthy.

    We did find other local drinks that we enjoyed. Our favorite beer was Vanu Pure Lager. And, it wasn’t my favorite just because it had a picture of a turtle on its label. We also tried Bounty Rum- which was perfectly lovely over ice, or in various island-appropriate cocktails. Then, of course, there is the freshly-hacked-open young coconut to replenish your electrolytes. 

    Before you think that's the end of tasty drinks in Fiji, let me note one more: the water. If I imagined where every drop of water we drank came from, I would have been in a constant state of melted-butter. A tropical rainfall trickling over volcanic rock, seeping deep below the earth's surface into an artesian aquifer... Whew!  Think about that next time you're in savasana

  • Stories from Fiji: Part II

    We first learned two Fijian words:
    Bula and Vinaka. Bula means hello, and vinaka is thank you. The Fijians were unbelievably friendly and remembered our name as soon as we said them. It felt like we were building a little holiday family very quickly. Bula, David! Bula, LeeAnna! Oh, and how they laugh. Between being frequently called by our first names and hearing such charming laughter, it me took no time to be completely won over.

    Now, my understanding of physics is terribly limited, so I couldn’t even begin to make a stab at explaining if time exists. However, I can tell you one thing is very real— Fiji Time. After no longer than 24 hrs on the island, we were holding time like a wet piece of soap. Having every meal whenever and wherever we wanted to, drinking tropical cocktails at any hour, and piddling around like it was our job. Without a television or laptop to keep ourselves endlessly entertained, we reverted to circadian rhythms. The sun set around 6 o’clock every evening, and to my bewilderment, I naturally woke up every morning at sunrise. Tres bizarre. Every rising and setting of the Fijian sun was witnessed.


  • Stories from Fiji: Part I

    Our first Fijian impression was a delirious one. We arrived at the break of dawn in the Nadi airport. With several hours until our next flight, David finagled a day-rate at a nearby hotel where we collapsed. We had no idea how fortunate and necessary a generous layover would be. For future reference, standard
    airline protocol is mostly forgotten in Nadi.

    After a good snooze and shower, we headed back toward the airport for our final destination: Savusavu. How we arrived there could be seen as either terrifying, or fantastic. We boarded an itty-bitty plane that had no working A/C, open access to the cockpit, and doors that did not shut air-tight.

    All that being said, the views during our circa hour-long flight made up for its unsettling aspects… We could truly see the evidence of Fiji being an archipelago, a word I find myself saying far too infrequently. Islands, islets, and fringing reefs. All washed in colors without comparison, except perhaps tropical fish scales and bird feathers. From sky to sea, everything was painted blue and turquoise.

    The Fijian landscape was fabulous from an aerial and eye level. The amount of lush vegetation made me so happy. Just breathing was more enjoyable amidst all that photosynthesis! Our accommodations were wonderful, too, and we had plenty of time ahead to bask in our little paradise.

  • Stories from Fiji: The Prologue

    We were still riding the wave of our wedding weekend-happiness at the New Orleans airport. It was the most fun I’ve ever had waiting for a flight. We ran into members of our wedding party, squeezed in one more meal from home, and savored leftovers of our intoxicatingly delicious wedding cake. (Thank you TSA for not confiscating it.) Not to mention, we were on our way to Fiji. Fiiiiijiiiii! Aerial-related metaphors started to blend with reality. Our plane was on top of the world. We were over the moon. We would come to find that our trip would mirror many aspects of a wedding, itself. Experiences worth reliving, wonderful people, a few inevitable hiccups… And, the most sincere sense of “being in your own world” that one could imagine.

    I’m not sure if I ever took off my rose-colored glasses in Fiji. And, if I did- it was only to peer over them for just a moment.